The Wine Provocateur and the Perils of Bordeaux
Sixty-year-old vines, knotted and thick-trunked, cling to the hillside on the oldest parcel of Regan Meador’s Bordeaux estate, just behind the limestone wine barn he spent a year renovating. It’s a misty spring morning, unseasonably cold and wet for this corner of one of the world’s most storied wine regions. Meador points out where the soil shifts from limestone to clay as the slope falls away toward a crease in the land. Variability, he believes, is the mother of complexity, and the contrasts...